Showing posts with label Aix-en-Provence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aix-en-Provence. Show all posts

Monday, June 28, 2010

Bistrot des Philosophies


While Eddie and Phil were visiting, we took them to a lovely dinner in my favorite square in the city, Place Forum des Cardeurs. (We really needed the sustenance after a long day of potonk tournaments.) The square has recently been renovated and is so lovely at night with all the pretty lights and pretty people. Elly had discovered this little gem of a place, Bistrot des Philosophies, and took me there for the most delicious appetizer I've ever had: foie gras créme brulee. We went there earlier on our trip and fell in love with it. Of course we had to return and share this amazing dish with our dear friends...we ordered two. Creamy and savory and smooth with a little sweet crunch on top. I must learn how to make this dish. The atmosphere in Philosophies is chic and casual, the prices are totally reasonable (for Aix) and the lighting was divine. I'm always surprized at how the right lighting can transform a good meal into a great experience. We sat and drank some bubbly and enjoyed a piece of fabulous piece of cote du bouef (a slow cooked hunk of steak that is seared and then baked). The best French meal I've had since I arrived. Parfait!

The night was topped off with a hilarious encounter between Elly and a random young man on the street. Since my arrival in Aix Elly has had me convinced that there are these small toilets on the street that rise up out of the ground for festivals and other times of high tourism. You see the little portals on the streets all over town. I kept seeing them everywhere and never really thought too hard about it, just a passing thought of how odd it was to have these elevator bathrooms. On our way out of dinner a young man was lowering one of the units back down and Elly struck up a conversation with him about the uniqueness of this particular town feature. He explained in patient and rusty English that they were not toilets....they are trash bins. Lowering them underground keeps the unsightly mess off the posh streets. I really have no idea how or where her theory formed, but we had a good laugh when we actually stood over supposed bathrooms and realized that the unit was far too small to turn around in, let alone sit down.
I have to credit Elly's enthusiastic nature with having me so unquestioningly convinced. It is sometimes a joy to be a clueless tourist.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Provence




I'm in a bit of a hurry, but wanted to just post something quick about my first week. I arrived in Aix-en-Provence on Monday (my new home base for the next couple of months. It is lovely and picturesque and charming. There are perfect markets every other day in the squares with delicious cheese and bread and charcuterie of every type imaginable. There are cafes full of beautiful people and shops of elegant European clothes everywhere. Exactly what you'd expect from the elegant south of France.

Elly and I are of course running around like frantic Americannes wanting to see and do everything in the area. My second day here we went to Marseilles to see the Notre Dame cathedral. It sits on the tallest cliff in the town of Marseilles, guarding the harbor and residents. It is beautifully restored and maintained. We lit candles and I prayed for just one moment of perfect clarity during my time here.

More adventures to follow soon!