Showing posts with label North Kohala. Show all posts
Showing posts with label North Kohala. Show all posts

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Kohala Farmers' Talks

I just got back from a conference on local farming in Northern Kohala. It was a big get-together for local merchants, restaurants, government representatives and farmers to spend a whole day talking about how they can collaborate better. But first let me tell the highlights of the day. There was this "Hawaiian version of Pan"-looking dude with a crazy huge hair and matching beard who showed up the session wearing only a sarong. That's right: no shirt, no shoes, just a thin piece of floral printed cloth and a big gap-toothed smile. To my great delight he stuck his "Hello my name is: Joey" tag directly onto his bare chest. Frickin' Hawaii. Joey was surprisingly well spoken and rallied a bunch of folks behind a campaign for life-time leases of 3 acre parcels to aspiring young farmers.

The farmers here have a ballsy goal of getting consumption of local agricultural products up to 50% in the Kohala community. A brilliant idea, but clearly the conference is just the first step. At the moment 70% of food grown in the area is shipped somewhere else. Only about 2% of food sold in restaurants and grocery stores is produced locally. Sadly, this is not at all unusual. Most of the produce, meat and dairy all over the country is shipped from somewhere else. It seems like eating is just a big game of musical chairs and I wonder how on earth it is more financially viable to ship your food all over the world, rather than eat it where its grown.

At the conference they touched on all sorts of issues concerning the local food industry and it turns out that one of the biggest is simple communication. The local merchants simply don't know what the farmers have to offer, and the farmers don't know what the merchants want them to be growing. Everyone, it seems, is idealogically on board with eating locally, which was a big shocker to me. Some were even willing to pay a premium for local foods. It's a miracle that no one needs convincing of the inherent value of a locally based food system. I think that because these folks live on a island, they have a deep understanding of the importance of self-sufficiency. That, and there's a whole lot of pride for food in these parts. Everyone seems to just love the papaya, sweet potato and guava that grow here so easily. They even like taro, which I cannot understand. I was super impressed by the tenacity, ingenuity and excitement of these folks for food and sustainability.


And what would a farming conference be without a fresh, local lunch? Our afternoon repast was 98% sourced from North Kohala (the only thing they bought was coconut oil, since no one processes that around here). It was a beautiful spread of everything from bean and potato salad, ceviche from some delicious local fish, three kinds of pork from a wild boar, poi, squash pie, beautiful big green salads and trifle of lilikoi and mango, and that's just what I can remember. My fellow WWOOFers and I contributed to the lunch by making sugar cane juice for the lilikoi lemonade.

Its criminal how many foods I regularly eat which I have taken so little time to think about. Sugar is one of them. It's in everything, and I never had any idea what kind of processing is behind it, or even what kind of plant it comes from. I guess vaguely I knew that it came from sugar cane, but what that looks like or how it grows are things I'd never considered. Yesterday we harvested some cane (it takes about 4 years of growing to get to harvestable size), cleaned it, split them for the juicer and then pushed it through this gigantic press which extracts the juice. The result is really sweet and sticky light brown juice that is only good for about 3 or 4 days. The sugar cane is actually a tropical grass, about the same size and shape as bamboo, but the inside is really hard, fibrous flesh that is super sweet when you chew on it. I snacked on a bunch while I was splitting the canes. A wheel-barrow full of canes made about 3 gallons of juice.

So, I wondered, how do you get white sugar from all this juice? Does it form crystals when you dry it? Is it dehydrated at high temperatures? I did a little research, and found out that it involves both of these things and, sadly, lots of chemicals, including sulphur dioxide, which remains in high levels in white refined sugar. Seems like it has more in common with meth than any plants when its done being processed. Which is not to say that I'll stop eating it, just noticing the similarities is all. And the cane juice mixed with lemon and lilikoi sure was heavenly. And I think its so damn cute that they call passionfruit lilikoi here on the islands. Doesn't it just sound more delicious in Hawaiian?

Saturday, August 15, 2009

My New Hood


So this WFOOFing thing is turning out to be a really prime deal. I am staying with a family on the north shore of the Big Island in Hawaii. They have a sustainable retreat with a big main lodge, some beautiful yurts and a spa area (currently under construction). The owners have been building the property from the ground up with their own hands for the past 8 years and it is truly amazing to see the fruits of their labors. They just opened a few months ago and I was their very first WWOOFer! You can check out the resort at here. There's a lot of love that's gone into creating this space and you feel it the moment you step onto the grounds.

I'm there to help put in a sustainable garden to feed everyone at the lodge. It's a small garden with about 12 raised beds, but soon enough there will be fresh vegetables and herbs for a retreat center full of guests. Down in the gulch next to the retreat, it's pretty jungley and there are lots of fruit trees with everything from ice cream bananas to passion fruit.





North Kohala is a rural area of the coast with two small towns, Kapa'au and Hawi. Both are towns in the are "blink and you'll miss it" sense of the word. Seems like there's about 10 stores in each one and maybe about 1500 residents between the two of them. It took me a couple days to realize that they were actually different towns with different names. A little Kohala history: North Kohala is the birthplace of the late, great Hawaiian king, Kemehameha I who united all the island under one rule shortly after Captain Cook discovered them in the late 19th century. There's a big statue of him in Kapa'au that gets decorated with leis and every year on King Kemehameha Day in June. Kohala used to be booming with the sugar industry (i.e. plantations, immigrant labor and cheap wages) up until the 1980's. Then the bottom fell out of the market here and now its mostly cute little shops for tourists. This means of lots of art galleries and restaurants. Ain't it quaint?

About five miles down the road from Hawi is the house I'm staying at with my host family. Its down a quiet lane with lots of cows and grass and mesquite trees.






It's a short walk down to the water and an awesome stretch of coastline. I just walked down tonight to see the sunset and check out the tide pools. Big black lava rocks and beautiful snorkeling water just steps from where I'm staying. Magical is probably the right word for it.